Konkan Diaries-The world is your Oyster-Forts of Konkan

Forts of Konkan

A lot has been said and written about Sindhudurg, in the past and the present. Sindhudurg, a place having both, a historical and a strategically important past, also a tourist destination in the present is what has driven me to visit this place and moreover write about it.

Sindhudurg, the name itself means a fort, hence it does not comes to a surprise that this fort is garnered with a wide range of forts. What is surprising the grandeur of the forts that have been and their remains in the present?

In the words of our great Maratha leader Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj, "Never Bend your head, always hold it High."  Same goes for our forts, that stands as sentinels, still watching over the Konkan. Let us take a glimpse in our glorious past, with all these magnificent forts that mark our history.

1. Sindhudurg Fort

One of the enduring symbols of Maharashtra's rich historical past is the Sindhudurg Fort. The fort derives its name from the combination of two words, "Sindhu" meaning "Sea" and "Durg" meaning "Fort". Sindhudurg is just 510 kilometres from Mumbai, on the Goa Highway. One can take a ferry from the Malvan Port to this Island fort.

Ariel image of Sindhudurg Fort

Also known as the "Malvan Fort", this citadel is located half a kilometre away from the mainland port of Malvan. Shivaji wanted to build an impregnable island fort at a considerable distance from the supposedly unbreachable Janjira Fort and thus selected the rocky island of Kurute. The location of the fort was strategically chosen by Shivaji to counter foreign forces coming from the shore, as well as for safeguarding the kingdom from neighbouring rulers. It is also believed that the fort was constructed by Shivaji to keep a check on the activities of Siddis of Murud-Janjira, who wanted to destroy his kingdom.

The 2 kilometres long ramparts of this fort stretch across the undulating periphery of this large and rocky island. The foundations of the fort were strengthened by using molten lead mixed with mortar. More than 70000 kilos of iron were used for casting. The construction of this fort began in 1664 and took 3 years to complete. It is believed that the great warrior king himself lent a hand in building the fort.

Sindhudurg covers an extensive area of 48 acres with almost 2 miles of fortified rampart walls 29 feet high and 12 feet thick, comprising observation towers and 52 enormous semicircular bastions with embrasures for cannons. The top of the ramparts was accessible by stone staircases at various points. Some bastions contain hidden exit ways that lead out of the fort.

The entrance to the fort is by the Dilli Darwaja to the north-east. The main gate is so well camouflaged within the folds of the rampart walls that it is visible only at really close quarters. A shrine to Goddess Jarimari guards the entrance to the fort. On the right, perched atop the main gate, is the fort's most prized relic - the footprint and palm impression of the revered Shivaji Maharaj, set on a slab of dry lime.

Apart from the customary shrines of Bhawani, Mahadeo, Jarimari and Mahapurush, Sindhudurg enjoys the distinction of having the only temple dedicated to Chhatrapati Shivaji, which was built by his son Rajaram. One does also come across some ruins of ancient temples, wells and cisterns throughout the fort. The Shivaji Jayanti, Ram Navami, Janmashtami, Mahashivratri and Ganesh Chaturthi are some of the prominent festivals celebrated here on a grand scale.

Some of the temples are still in use and are maintained by the 20 odd families that live on this island fort. The Sakpal Naik family, the original killedars, still reside in one of the 16 houses within the fort.

2. Vijay Durg Fort

Vijaydurg, also known as the Victory Fort, is located on the western coast of India. This fort is counted amongst the strongest marine forts. The fort is spread over an area of around 68796.55 square metres and provides evidence of the martial supremacy of the Marathas under Shivaji's reign.

Vijaydurg Fort

Vijaydurg, initially known as Gheria, is considered to have been raised by the Bijapur rulers. The fort was later strengthened and enlarged by Shivaji in the 17th century. It was constructed on the hill near the mouth of the Vaghotan River. Surrounded by the sea on three sides and a ditch on the fourth side, the fort was constructed for safeguarding the kingdom from the neighbouring rulers.

 It is believed that Shivaji added huge towers and 3 rows of huge walls to the structure. The main entrance gate of the fort, located on the eastern side, leads to the path that takes one to the middle wall and a hidden inner gateway. The strong triple walls feature around 27 bastions. The inner region of the fort has various buildings and storehouses, which presently stand in ruins, except a rest-house.

Historians state that the fort witnessed many wars, out of which the war with the European powers is considered to be the prominent one. During the period between 1667 and 1729, the fort was under the control of the Marathas. Kanhoji Angre, the naval chief of the Marathas, fought a battle with the Europeans to safeguard the kingdom. The fort was under the collaborated reign of the English and the Peshwas in 1756 and remained with the Peshwas till 1818.

Later, a battle was again fought between the Peshwas and the British and the fort was surrendered to the British as the outcome. A submerged wall of around 100 metres has been discovered recently when the water level of the sea decreased. This wall stands on the eastern side of the fort and is considered to be around 3 metres deep in the sea. The surrounding walls of the fort are 7 metres wide and 122 metres long. It is believed that the region around the banks of the Vaghotan River was a dock, used by the Marathas for building and repairing their ships.

3. Bharatgad Fort

Bharatgad rests on the south shore of Kalavali creek in Masure village of Malvan taluka and has an area of about 5 to 6 acres. As the fort is now home to private Mango plantations the structures are well maintained and the citadel and bastions are still intact.

In 1670, Shivaji Maharaj surveyed the hill but could not fortify it due to non-availability of water. Later, fearing the disputes with the Chief of Kolhapur named Bavdekar, in 1680 the Phond Savants cut a well 228 feet deep in the rock which gave them access to water and thus fortified the fort later in 1701.

Bharatgad Fort

The Phond Savants joined the Peshwas against Tulaji Angre who later attacked Bharatgad in 1748 and won the fort. But sooner the Savants won back the fort. In 1787 the Savants lost the fort to the ruler of Karvir but they handed the fort back to the Savants. In 1818, Captain Hutchinson won the fort into the British Empire. It was observed that the water of the well had disappeared owing to the gunshots and the garrison used wooden barrels to store water.

Stairs built in rock takes us to the fort in 5 minutes. The main doorway is in ruins but the fort wall and bastions are still in good shape. There is a 20 X 10 feet deep ditch surrounding the fort which is not generally visible due to dense vegetation cover around it.

Moving forward after entering the main door one has to proceed south by keeping the fort wall to the left to reach the bastions. There is a deep ditch near the south side of the wall which could have been used for water storage during monsoons.

The citadel stands amid the fort on an elevated ground. There are four bastions on the four corners of the citadel and its walls are about 17 to 18 feet high and five feet thick. One can see porches built in the main door. Within the Citadel, there is a small temple, and near it is a big well about 228 feet deep, cut through solid rock. Towards the right one can see the remains of storage houses used for grains and ammunition. There is a secret door in the southern bastion which leads further to the main entrance of the fort.

4. Sarjekot Fort

Sarjekot Fort is one amongst the many fortresses constructed by the Maratha ruler, Shivaji. Lying north of the Sindhudurg Fort, this fort comes under the group of forts that were raised in and around Malvan, between the 16th and 18th centuries.

Sarjekot Fort

 It is believed that the fort was built in 1668 to provide shelter to Shivaji's ships during storms and the rainy season. It is located near the mouth of the Talashil River, from where people can enjoy very good views of the sunrise and sunset.

5. Rangnagad Fort

Situated at an altitude of 2600 feet above sea level, Rangnagad is a trekkers delight. This fort is among the fifteen forts built during the Shilahar Bhoj’s regime. Shivaji captured Rangnagad in 1659 and made the fort his favourite resting place. Freshwater lake and Rangnadevi Temple inside the fort are scenic splendours. Beware of bison’s on Rangnagad, it is recommended not to wear colourful clothes. When they see any person alone, they group themselves together quietly in one place and that is the danger signal for you, but these incidents are a rare case.

Mahalaxmi Temple, at Narur village this temple is located at the bottom of Rangnagad. Trekkers seek blessings from Goddess before moving upwards to Rangnagad. Tipri fair is the main annual event of the temple which attracts a large crowd of devotees.

Kondura, an amazing crater like well formed by the waterfall which gets active only in monsoons. The well is hidden in a thick grove towards the bottom of Rangnagad from it’s east. In the beginning of June water miraculously swells up inside the well and produces a unique sound.

Rangnagad Fort

Kadelot Point is a severe punishment point was used for killing a person by hurting him down a precipice is located at Hanmanta wadi (a steep rock mountain towards the east of Rangnagad). Point is visible from Pal village.

Animals production centre, on route to Shivapur at Nileli this centre, attracts enthusiastic tourists to see it’s cow pen.

 6. Kille Nivati

This dilapidated fort by the seashore impresses upon the visitor by its range of rocks situated at its bottom. The rippling perennial springs here content one’s mind foot also commands the fine view of Bhogwe beach.

Kille Nivati

Kille Nivati is actually one of the area ("Wadi" in local language) of Parule village history and natural beauty gives this place a different edge. Kille Nivati, as its name suggests is a fort, constructed by great Maratha ruler Shivaji.  He was such a visionary who had given proper attention to his naval force. He built many forts for the protection of his empire. Truly, he was a man of the fort. Kille Nivati too was built for the same purpose. Sarjekot, Padmagad and Rajkot are some other names. From this fort, one can observe Bhogave's alleviating beach. Here one can enjoy local cuisine with desi Maska Chaska. Currently, this place doesn't enjoy frequent visits by tourists, so one can really devour the untouched beauty of this wonderland.

7. Gagangad Fort

Gagangad Fort is situated at an average altitude of 3000 feet above sea level, on the highest peak of the Gaganbavada Ghat. Gagangad Fort is believed to have been constructed in the 12th century by King Bhoj, this fort stands on a steep rock.

Gagangad Fort

This wonderful steep rock fort was established under the regime of “King Bhoj” in the 12th century. Standing at an altitude of 3000 feet the fort is advantageously located on the topmost peak of Gaganbavada. It slopes down to bottom nearly from all the sides leaving one narrow way for the visitors to enter the fort.

More to Explore is this land shrouded in a cloud of mysteries. Keep following me.